We were in a 30-seater bus – something between a kidnapper
van and a Winnebago – thousands of feet above sea level in the Himalayan range,
absolutely certain that we were going to die.
I know this because I heard the bus driver whisper, “I think we’re going to die,” and with his smart woven cap and clipped mustache, he didn’t seem the dramatic type.
I know this because I heard the bus driver whisper, “I think we’re going to die,” and with his smart woven cap and clipped mustache, he didn’t seem the dramatic type.
This is what happens when you try to pray at ancient temples.
One time my grandmother’s foot swelled up to the size of a watermelon as we
trekked to a solid gold avatar of a family God. Another time I almost fainted, trying to complete the
requisite one hundred rounds of a sacred statue.
But nothing was as bad as this particular stretch of a
family vacation in the mountains, because there were 25 of us, and a huge box
of mangos; suitcases with clothes meant for the whole year; and huge metal tins of messy stuffed paranthas and stinky
chutneys that constitute portable travel food in India.
It was a month long family trip, I remember, that had been
planned weeks in advance by my mother and her four sisters. I was ten years
old, just growing out of a terrible haircut. I was the youngest, with my Limited Too cerulean
shorts and butterfly clips.
We had hired a driver from Delhi onward, who, with a hardly
nourished co-pilot named Raju, would navigate the 30 or so destinations we were
told to see.
Until then, things had gone smoothly because were in safe
territory – four star hotels, big cities, tour guides and unlimited chai and pakoras. We had the Mary Poppins bag of
food, and we spent our free time singing Ricky Martin’s “Maria”, and imitating the Buddhist chanting that we picked up in the
smaller villages. I still remember my beautiful aunt with one hand over her mouth singing,
“Lubalubalubaluba boy boy boy boy,” right in front of the monks-in-training,
sweet-faced Tibetan pre-teen boys wearing the orange and maroon robes of
austerity.
Then there was this: A trip to visit one of the oldest
temples in the vicinity, according to the people trying to get us to stay in a
nearby hotel. And so we piled in the car with all of our baggage, and set off.
Halfway up the mountain our bus was trying to inch up a
steep bend when the tires started to spin furiously – coughing up a smattering
of tiny rocks and sand from the dirt margins of the road. Our trusty vehicle
began to slide back, unable to catch hold or move forward, straight toward the
unobstructed cliff that marked the end of the mountainside.
Raju jumped out of the truck with a grin and sashayed to the
edge of the cliff to see how many inches we had left to back up. His calm
confidence kept our family in their seats, chatting about how a friend’s son we
had met in the last city was handsome, and more importantly, fair-skinned, and
should probably marry into our family at some point. But then we all looked
back to see Raju trying to adjust football-sized rocks behind the wheels to procrastinate
our imminent death, and in that moment, I knew we were gonners.
My mother raced to the bus door, trying to jump out in some
sort of heroic attempt at safety. But the driver stopped her. “Madam, I have kids too,
don’t you think I would tell you if you should be getting out of the van?”
She looked back at us and sat down in the front, smack next
to the driver. Note about my mother: she once started a mini-riot at an Air
India counter when the travel agents didn’t show up on time and we were close
to missing our flight.
The next few moments were the slowest of my life – stretched
out, panoramic seconds in which I looked at each of my cousins and aunts as
people should do in their last breaths, taking in the prominent maroon bindis
between their eyebrows, the orange tinge of henna in their graying hair. I said
a silent prayer in my mind, one of the only ones I know, and simultaneously tried
to locate the windows that had working handles.
It was some point in this film reel memory that our driver
had whispered, “I think we’re going to die”, although no one remembers him
saying this but me. I looked at him in the rearview mirror, trying to employ my
psychic faculties to give him one last push.
And then there was a revving of the engine and sudden lurch
forward. Raju made a loud whoop – the sweetest sound to ever escape a brown man’s
lips (later in the trip he would be arrested for steeling some other tourists’
money), and gave the bus a whack as if he were hitting someone’s bottom with a
towel. The wheels had turned just enough to gain momentum and the inches
between us and the cliff turned to feet, and then to meters.
Our co-pilot raced up and jumped onto his seat like a cowboy
on a rodeo bull and the bus sped up to the top of the hill in one piece. We climbed
out of the van, slipped off our shoes at the entrance of the temple and went in
to pray to the goddess. After all, we were alive because of her.
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